Leathery in texture, with dusty layers of caramel and toffee, this estate-grown wine is from dry-farmed vines and 100% varietal. Tight, grippy tannins show the heat of the appellation and vintage. With length and breadth, it shines in bright red and black fruit, dark chocolate, clove and oak.

Graphite, mostly black fruits, iron, and tapenade notes all emerge from the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Bone Ash Vineyard, a jammy ripe, full-bodied, opulent wine from a site in Calistoga. I like its tannins, and while it has plenty of up-front appeal, I see no reason it shouldn't keep for 15+ years.