A touch of vanilla-laced pastry cream sweetness accents this fresh and focused Champagne, with a fine mousse. This is well-balanced by crunchy acidity and flavors of lemon peel, green pear and spring blossom. Drink now through 2022.

The standard nonvintage from this producer benefits from its policy of blending in a high percentage of older reserve wines. That gives the wine its richness and smooth, ripe character. Hints of apples are still there along with a good balance between acidity and toastiness. Drink now.

(60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay; 8 g/l dosage; L1234411212): Light gold. Lees-accented orchard and citrus fruit aromas are complicated by sweet butter, iodine and smoky minerals. Dry and expansive on the palate, offering lively pear and melon flavors and a refreshingly bitter touch of orange pith. Ample but lithe brut, with very good finishing punch and repeating smoke and pear qualities.